Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.